Monday, June 17, 2013

Vogue Pattern Magic

As I previously mentioned, there was just enough rayon/lycra jersey to eke out a top for myself.

The most interesting part about Vogue 1020 is the asymmetric side gathers.

Don't the pattern pieces remind you of things you might see in the Pattern Magic books?

I didn't follow the instructions.  I gathered each piece separately and pin-basted them to a strip of silk selvedge. (I save my selvedges for ersatz stay tape.)  The pattern piece for the stay measured 12" between the dots.  I marked 12" in chalk on the stay, and then pulled the gathering stitches to match.

Rather than use the turned under and stitched neckline in the pattern, I tried a twisted collar band with mixed success.  This makes me appreciate the evenness of RTW twisted necklines.
This top needs to be very figure-hugging for the gathers to stay in place.  It runs true to size--allowing for 0-1" ease.  I cut out a size 12, but took a smaller seam allowance below the waist to give an extra inch around the hips.

I've also made McCall's 6400, another similar Pattern Magic-like top.  That was a fit disaster.  I made a size Medium (12-14).  The neck and shoulders were huge; the ease around the hips prevented the side from scrunching up as shown on the pattern envelope.  The model must be wearing a top several sizes smaller than her measurements would place her.

Vogue 1020 is much better constructed (stays in the seam!) and accurately-sized for the style.  Guess which pattern is out of print and which one is still for sale?  Sigh.  Snap up used copies of Vogue 1020 on the internets before they become rare.

By the time I finished this top, I had only small scraps left.  I wonder if I could enter this in the Stash Contest?  This piece had been marinating in my fabric collection for several years and I used up all of it.


  1. I've made this as a dress a couple times and they are a big hit for date night. Your side gathering looks a lot better than mine!

  2. Thanks. I think, with this style, it makes sense to gather the two pieces separately. This way, the gathers are out of sync, reducing the bulk at the side seam.

  3. I like how this top has turned out. The twisted neckline would take me a lot longer to work out.
    I agree that your side gathers look very balanced too.
    Your machine would have appreciated the eveness of the fabric gathers too.


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