My sister asked me today about my favorite A-line skirt patterns. They are all out of print, OOP, but here are a few, including the one I am currently sewing. The asymmetric box pleats in Vogue 9951 attracted me. They remind me of a Japanese skirt in one of my pattern books. Overlapped and asymmetric pleats are magical for two reasons; you don't have to match the two sides of the pleats so that the meet exactly (which they never do without hand basting, which I am too lazy to do), and it combines the topological function of both a dart and a pleat. Magic!
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I made view A out of a cream linen with a metalized finish. If I used the linen on the waistband, it would scratch through my skin (YMMV); I used Kona cotton for the waistband. I added pockets and a Bemberg rayon lining.
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I cut it out in a size 16 throughout, and then applied a magic hidden elastic waistband to bring in the ease at the waist. Now I need not turn down dessert. Pleats over a stomach that is less than drum flat may not be flattering. I stitched them down for the first two inches or so below the waistband.
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To add a pocket, I placed tracing paper over the skirt back pattern piece. I laid a pocket piece from another pattern on top. I traced the pocket bag, drew the side hip curve to match the skirt back curvature, and extended the pocket upwards to the waistband. I put things in my pockets and they need the extra support the waistband provides.
I have made the skirt in Vogue 1358 three times in matte jersey. I also used the skirt pattern piece twice to make a Frankenstein dresses, combined with a Kwik Sew t-shirt pattern.
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Each time, I cut the front in two pieces instead of one, and placed the straight of grain down the center of each skirt quadrant. I omitted the zipper on the skirts and added a tubular elastic waistband sized to stretch over my hips. It is very comfortable and I wear the skirts often. In fact, skirt #3 was a replacement for skirt #1, which had worn out. The shorts make great summer pajama pants, too.
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I have made Burda 3152 twice. It is not as flattering as Vogue 1358, but it still in print.
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Here are the backviews.
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Ann also said she was interested in making skorts. I bought Butterick 4894, but haven't sewn them yet.
I'm a self drafted culottes gal myself. I really don't wear skirts in winter at all, and summer is more playclothes than adult wear at the office I work at. Waistband to pocket is critical (I overstuff all pockets).
ReplyDeleteNice work there!