Thursday, February 26, 2009

Magical Metalized Linen Pleated Skirt

My sister asked me today about my favorite A-line skirt patterns. They are all out of print, OOP, but here are a few, including the one I am currently sewing. The asymmetric box pleats in Vogue 9951 attracted me. They remind me of a Japanese skirt in one of my pattern books. Overlapped and asymmetric pleats are magical for two reasons; you don't have to match the two sides of the pleats so that the meet exactly (which they never do without hand basting, which I am too lazy to do), and it combines the topological function of both a dart and a pleat. Magic!

I made view A out of a cream linen with a metalized finish. If I used the linen on the waistband, it would scratch through my skin (YMMV); I used Kona cotton for the waistband. I added pockets and a Bemberg rayon lining.

I cut it out in a size 16 throughout, and then applied a magic hidden elastic waistband to bring in the ease at the waist. Now I need not turn down dessert. Pleats over a stomach that is less than drum flat may not be flattering. I stitched them down for the first two inches or so below the waistband.
To add a pocket, I placed tracing paper over the skirt back pattern piece. I laid a pocket piece from another pattern on top. I traced the pocket bag, drew the side hip curve to match the skirt back curvature, and extended the pocket upwards to the waistband. I put things in my pockets and they need the extra support the waistband provides.

I have made the skirt in Vogue 1358 three times in matte jersey. I also used the skirt pattern piece twice to make a Frankenstein dresses, combined with a Kwik Sew t-shirt pattern.
Each time, I cut the front in two pieces instead of one, and placed the straight of grain down the center of each skirt quadrant. I omitted the zipper on the skirts and added a tubular elastic waistband sized to stretch over my hips. It is very comfortable and I wear the skirts often. In fact, skirt #3 was a replacement for skirt #1, which had worn out. The shorts make great summer pajama pants, too.
I have made Burda 3152 twice. It is not as flattering as Vogue 1358, but it still in print.

Here are the backviews.
Ann also said she was interested in making skorts. I bought Butterick 4894, but haven't sewn them yet.

1 comment:

  1. I'm a self drafted culottes gal myself. I really don't wear skirts in winter at all, and summer is more playclothes than adult wear at the office I work at. Waistband to pocket is critical (I overstuff all pockets).
    Nice work there!


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